Girona has a quiet charm and a placid air about it. The best way to observe this is by walking the ancient city walls, stopping for contemplative rests at the intermittent observation towers. The views from here can be mixed – one glance throws up ugly cranes and scaffolding, the next red roofs and the soaring towers of Girona’s religious landmarks – but it is well worth the effort.
Further serenity can be found in the labyrinthine streets and steps of the old town, the Call (the former Jewish quarter, where there is a small museum documenting the history of Catalonia’s medieval Jewry before their 15th-century expulsion from Spain), and the squares, gardens and promenades that follow the River Onyar through the city. From the bridges that lead between old and new towns, you can observe eccentric buildings that line the banks of the river.
A useful guide for maps and inspiration is Triangle Postals’ compact guide to Girona, which also suggests trips and tours in north-eastern Catalonia. For a more detailed map, try the city plan by Telstar.
Easily accessible by coach, the national parks near Girona (try the volcanic Garrotxa National Park) and the rugged coastline leading up to the French border offer glimpses of Catalonia’s natural beauty. On the Costa Brava, you could always try visiting the resorts that are so popular, but you definitely shouldn’t miss the quiet fishing villages, coves and spectacular views to be found in some of the more remote places like Calella de Palafrugell, south-east of Girona.
If you have the energy, try walking some of the GR92 coastal path, which will take your breath away and may also leave you breathless. For excursions such as this, you could refer to the Catalan survey (see their excellent topographic atlas) and the Rough Guide to Spain. Walking Maps of Spain by Editorial Alpina are also very useful due to the fact that they come with booklets to help plan walks and outdoor activities.
Author: Tim Cleary
Date: 12 March 2008