For a good mix of history, culture, food and relaxation, Hungary offers its fair share of attractions for tourists. My trip to Hungary took in quite varied pleasures, from relaxing in the Turkish baths of Budapest (try jumping from a boiling hot sauna into a pool of cold water) to intrepid quad driving through the beautiful, verdant fields and woods of the north-eastern Kisalföld region.
The Kisalföld offers not only nature, but also the pretty city of Györ and the historically rich Pannonhalma Monastery, perched on a hill with fine views of the surrounding area.
Budapest was an inspiring city to visit. The architecture along the banks of the gorgeous Danube is radiant both in the daytime and at night, and walking the banks of the river was a refreshing way to start my visit. Walking the streets of the city throws up pretty squares, historic buildings (try Europe’s largest synagogue in Pest), proud statues and outdoor cafés, bars and restaurants. Late-night revellers might enjoy a trip to an outdoor club in Buda, where you can dance in the warm air and sample fine lagers and the peculiar Unicum, which is a dark, herbal Magyar spirit.
After the capital, my excellent hosts took me to visit Lake Balaton. A gorgeous milky blue lake, Balaton offers not only relaxed bathing, but also delightful small towns on the northern shores where you can visit museums, palaces and climb up to the ruins of a hilltop castle on the Szigliget peninsula. Life in this area seems very relaxed, especially while you recline in a dimly lit winery, sip red wine and listen to live violin performed by a Roma gypsy band.
Other, more random activities included enduring a concert by the long-established Hungarian rock band EDDA and a trip to an ice-cream factory. Here, I participated in a company table-tennis tournament, bowing out in shame after being challenged by a former national champion. I consoled myself with a tour of the factory, tasting the ice cream and seeing how the flavours are created by scientists in a Willy Wonka-style setting.
Any gastronomes should bear in mind that Hungary is a nation of meat-eaters – meat is eaten in copious amounts even at the breakfast table – and goulash, spicy stews and cold meats are a staple. But this need not put off any vegans or vegetarians, since you’ll find dishes with glorious combinations of ingredients you never would have dreamt of. As a vegetarian, my favourite meal comprised of a fruit soup, followed by a cherry strudel and a shot of lethal plum brandy (pálinka).
For any trip to Hungary, I would recommend some decent books and maps. The Rough Guide to Hungary was extremely informative and the Bradt Travel Guide to Hungary gave me inspiration and interesting facts (particularly about Hungarian naming conventions and a history of the Rubik’s cube). For travel literature, you might enjoy reading sections of Patrick Leigh Fermor’s Between the Woods and the Water, which recounts his walk across central and eastern Europe in the 1930s. The Insight Fleximap of Budapest offers clear mapping of the key tourist destinations. And if you’re hoping to explore other areas of the country in more depth, particularly if you are hiking or trekking, you could try Hungary’s own mapping from Cartographia. But before any of this, try acquainting yourself with the strange and beautiful Hungarian language – for this, the Rough Guide Hungarian phrasebook served me very well.
Author: Tim Cleary
Date: 21 January 2008
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