Most people remember Delhi as somewhere unfortunately close to the inner-circle of hell, a result of the fact that they arrive and proceed, shell-shocked and heat-exhausted, to a thankless battle with Indian bureaucracy to book their onward journey. But there's fun to be had there, I promise.
The overly-caustic-but-nevertheless-informative Lonely Planet guide to Rajasthan, Delhi and Agra, will tell you about all the unmissable sights. But even better than this, armed with a reliable TTK city map of Delhi you can leave the tourist trail and discover that, in between the grimey, traveller-infested pit of Paharganj and the guilt-inducing gilt of the five-star hotels, is a secret Delhi; that of the middle-class Delhiites. So come on, after all it is the start of the South Asian century. These people are going to be running the world soon, you might as well see what they get up to in their leisure time.
South Delhi is where it's at. For a fantastic evening meal, head to the rooftop in the Bistro restaurant complex in Hauz Khas, with gorgeous views of Deer Park, where the impressive Islamic ruins are lit up at night. After that, go to Saket. Here, the uber-hip new Buzz bar is where all the cool kids hang out. It's open pretty late (for Delhi), and has a female DJ, possibly the coolest woman in the city, who'll play your requests. We're not talking cutting-edge urban sounds here, but don't be such a snob - you're just waiting to discover that the key to every good night is a large dose of rock anthems.
Once that closes, Delhi having been unfortunately bequeathed English-style opening hours, you can get an iced coffee and a fine chocolate brownie in Baristas - this used to be the only place in Delhi open 24 hours, although I think even they may now close at some point. They also show European football matches, which become essential viewing when you're pining for home.
Finally, Saket is home to PVR Anupam, a multiscreen cinema, where you can catch the obligatory Bollywood film. What, you don't want to sit through a three-hour film in a language you don't understand? Oh come on! What's to understand? These people are in love! And they're singing! And dancing! And the cinema's air-conditioned. I rest my case.
Literature wise, get hold of William Dalrymple's City of Djinns - you can't help but be infected by his love of the city. And once you're out there, you want to be reading the Hindustan Times, for listings of plays and concerts at the excellent India Habitat Centre and India International Centre, and The Hindu, for by far the best Indian and international news coverage.
Author: Jessica Bath
Date: 1 March 2004
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