Not far from the hectic capital Kuala Lumpur (KL) is a green and pleasant land, where tea and scones are served in mock-Tudor restaurants, and it’s prone to rain now and again. Yes, there is a small patch of England in Malaysia.
Harking of course back to colonial times, the Cameron Highlands were established as a hill station for the poor old British retreating from the heat. And when I left the bus from KL in Tanah Rata, it seemed very little had changed.
I headed for a guesthouse on top of a hill, where the accommodation occupied Nissen huts used by the British army in World War II. Now with a modern cafe and reception area, the guesthouse was surrounded by well-tended, flower-filled gardens and scenic views of lush green hills.
Perusing the information boards, I read numerous warnings against setting off on treks alone or unprepared. Jim Thompson, who set up the Thai Silk Company, set off for a walk one evening, while holidaying in the Cameron Highlands in 1967, and never returned. His disappearance remains a mystery to this day, with various theories trying to solve the riddle, ranging from kidnapping to tiger attacks.
I decided to put off doing a jungle trek, and instead opted for a more genteel tour of a tea plantation. The Boh Tea Estate is one of the biggest producers of tea in the country and we were shown the passage from leaf to cup. Nearby are other opportunities for gentle pursuits, including visits to butterfly, honey bee and strawberry farms.
Later that day I discovered yet more reminders of England, with the mock-Tudor ‘Ye Olde Smokehouse’ hotel and restaurant that even has a red British phone box outside. Stepping inside the house, the several thousand miles back to the UK disappeared as I was met with floral furnishings, wooden beams and old furniture. It seemed only appropriate to try out the cream tea, complete with scones, and of course the locally produced tea and strawberry jam.
The next day I felt ready to tackle a trek through the jungle. I followed a steep forest trail, sometimes climbing almost vertically up tree roots, to finally reach a mountain summit. And while in places it was tough-going, I’m pleased to report I did not disappear, but instead returned to civilisation in time for tea.
Maybe I was saved by using the Rough Guide to Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei. If you’re prone to getting lost, please do take along a good map. Invest in the Rough Guide waterproof map to Malaysia. There is also the Lonely Planet Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei, with a brief synopsis of each hiking trail in the Camerons.
Author: Rachel Ricks
Date: 14 September 2007
Add a comment