Rivers are one of our planet's natural highways. They can also provide a jolting, roller-coaster ride through a very big bathtub, an exhilarating tussle with the forces of nature. You don't have to be experienced, you just need a healthy appetite for adventure, don't mind being wet all day, have a sense of humour and the desire to experience something new.
Nepal is a river runner's paradise. Rightly famed for its trekking credentials, Nepal is also renowned for its wilderness rafting. No other country has such a choice of multi-day trips, away from the roads in magnificent mountain settings, with warm rivers, a temperate climate, exotic cultures and friendly people.
Of the trips available, a popular, medium length river descent is the one that travels the length of the Kali Gandaki river, combining exhilarating white water and spectacular scenery. This is one of the famous names of Himalayan rivers. The Kali Gandaki rises in Mustang, an enclave of Nepal that pokes into Tibet. Initially a flat river, it soon drops off the edge of the world and cuts one of the deepest gorges in the world between Dhaulagiri, height 8167m to the west and Annapurna, 8091m to the east. These two peaks are only 38km apart, providing a vertiginous gorge. Once an ancient trading route to Tibet, it is now a favourite with thrill seekers.
The river passes through an area where until fairly recently, tourists were virtually unknown. There are few villages on the riverbanks - most are located on terraces perched hundreds of metres above. Named after the Goddess Kali, the river is considered particularly holy and an auspicious place to be cremated. Consequently many of the river confluences are dotted with cremation sites and burial mounds - do not be tempted to investigate the contents of these cairns!
Most days begin in a similar fashion, usually with something hearty to eat (or to throw up later…). Gelatinous eggs are a favourite. Following a briefing on the day's route, the river is then tackled. You are then free to paddle, raft, admire the view, see villages, eyeball rapids, spot wildlife and await the carnage! The Kali Gandaki has some 60 rapids within 60km of river, most of moderate difficulty / Class 3. (There is an accepted international standard for grading rapids, rated 1-6, based on various conditions. 1 is slow moving water with a perceptible current, 5 is challenging, technical whitewater and 6 is unsafe to run commercially.) Over the course of the trip you'll be forced to contend with "Little Brother", "Big Brother" and "Rafters' Refund", all of which are quite big enough to flip a raft. The biggest rapid on the river lies at the end of the descent. "Walk in the Dark" is a sizeable rapid, graded 4+. These should provide gut-wrenching, adrenaline fixing whitewater rafting. You'll be twisted, turned, shaken and basically hurled all over the place. Admittedly this is not everyone's idea of fun (so that's just me then?), but it is undeniably a once in a lifetime experience. The sense of achievement in taming the river is tremendous. Hanging onto a piece of rope attached to a raft, whilst on spin cycle in one of the world's largest washing machines is not the easiest thing in the world. However, you should discover that fear and determination will combine to help you develop a grip of Olympic proportions! Sodden and shaking, the adrenaline rush is enormous.
This is a classic trip, which offers the best of the Nepali rafting experience. Passing through beautiful unspoilt scenery, via dramatic gorges and wilderness you'll encounter copious wildlife and numerous temples and palaces. Many of these buildings are now derelict, eerie shells, which look as if they belong on the set of Indiana Jones. Once full of life, they are now the redoubt of ghosts. All the while, a snow clad Annapurna looms in the background, intimidating and awe-inspiring.
For those wishing to plan an itinerary themselves, the recommended guidebooks are the Lonely Planet Nepal, and the Rough Guide Nepal. More specialised information can be obtained from the excellent White Water Nepal, by Peter Knowles.
Himalaya Map House produce maps of the rivers Sun Kosi, Bhote Kosi & Balephi Khola and Trisuli but an overview of the whole country can prove very useful, especially if it comes in the quality of the Nelles map of Nepal.
Author: Alex Stewart
Date: 1 October 2001
Add a comment