The Pyrénées, rising to almost 3,500 metres, form a natural barrier between the Iberian peninsula and France. The heavily forested valleys and sharp rocky ridges are relatively unspoilt and are certainly under less pressure than the Alps. On either side of the chain, language and culture are distinct and it's not just French or Spanish. The Basque and Catalan languages are predominant at the western and eastern ends respectively. From a walker's point of view the Spanish side often receives the best of the sunshine and can easily be reached from Barcelona in the east or Bilbao in the west.
Places to head for include the magnificent Ordesa National Park where various trails circumnavigate the yawning terraced canyon that gives the park its name. Further east is the Aigües Tortes National Park which, loosely translated, means Twisted Waters. A trek up to the various refugios that sit below the intimidating serrated peaks will take you along well trodden forest trails that thread their way between these delightful sparkling pools.
One of my favourite places, in part due to the good coach link from Barcelona, is the popular holiday village of Benasque in Aragón, where tiny cobbled streets wind between old stone buildings. The village is squeezed between two mountain massifs. On one side is the second highest peak Posets while on the other is the highest; Aneto at 3,440 metres.
From Benasque a good trek takes you along the route of the GR11 up the Estos valley which could possibly claim to be one of the most beautiful valleys in the Pyrénées. On either side are high 3,000-metre peaks while the deep valley floor is covered with a mixture of pine and beech forest interspersed with lush meadows of lilies. This is a good place to spot some Pyrenean wildlife including marmots, bearded vultures and the elusive pine marten.
After three to four hours walking from Benasque you can stay at the vast Estos refugio, one of the grandest, most extravagant mountain huts in the Pyrénées. Hardier souls can stay for free in one of the more traditional shepherd's huts where you are more likely to be sleeping on a dusty floor with the mice than on a mattress with other sweaty walkers and climbers.
The Benasque area is just one part of a magnificent chain of mountains. Wherever you go the unspoilt landscape of endless forests, meadows and snowy peaks will make you want to come back and explore some more.
I recommend the Editorial Alpina Maps of the Pyrenees, Through the Spanish Pyrénées - GR11 by Cicerone Press and Trekking in the Pyrenees by Trailblazer.
Author: Jim Manthorpe
Date: 1 May 2002
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