After experiencing Christchurch‘s earthquake first-hand in 2011, Chloe McInnes, who spent two years living and working in New Zealand, uncovers a rebuilt city that’s beginning to welcome back visitors.
Whenever I mention living in Christchurch, the most commonly-asked questions are “Wasn’t there an earthquake there?” and “Was it scary?” Well, yes, and (obviously) yes. And I’m beginning to find this discouraging, because it’s almost two years since the quake, and the people of Christchurch have worked tirelessly to rebuild the city and its surrounding suburbs.
I may be biased but I think Christchurch is a truly beautiful place. To the west, it’s framed by snow-topped mountains and to the east, the coastal line snakes round some of the most stunning scenery. Although the very centre of the city is off-limits due to quake damage, Christchurch still possesses much of its charm and has a lot to offer visitors.
With that in mind, here’s an honorary local’s top five guide to the city and its surroundings:
1. Governors Bay and coastline
You’d be mad not to hire a car when visiting Christchurch; I’m not knocking the bus service, it’s pretty good, but you only have to drive 20 minutes from the city centre to see the spectacular coastline. Although the eastern suburbs of Christchurch were the most badly hit in the quake, the ports and bays still possess great tranquillity and are particularly beautiful in the summertime. I’d recommend starting off in Lyttelton Port and grabbing a drink from the local franchise Coffee Culture, then taking the Governors Bay Road round past Corsair Bay (where you can swim if the weather’s right), continuing until you reach Governors Bay itself where it’s a must to visit She Chocolat (the chocolate-covered dates are an acquired taste and a peculiar texture, but they’re oddly delicious). If it’s more a beach day you fancy, Sumner is the most appealing stretch of sand. The area has a very relaxed and pleasant seaside feel, and if you’re a surfer you can swing round to Taylor’s Mistake to catch some waves.
2. The arts
Christchurch Art Gallery is an impressively looming glass structure which, despite appearing fragile, is actually one of the safest places in the city (it was used as a temporary headquarters for the Earthquake Commission, initially). Thankfully, the EQC shipped out and the galleries were reinstated, showcasing everything from modern pieces and local art to internationally-renowned installations (I saw the Ron Mueck sculptures there). The gallery is a very serene place with a backdrop of the old Arts Centre across the road – a collection of heritage buildings which are unfortunately still closed due to earthquake damage. While not a lot of the original architecture remains, if you’re more of a modernist you’re sure to appreciate the ‘pop up city’ that’s emerged where Cashel Street Mall used to stand. Now, the area is home to a collection of shops, eateries, and entertainment venues in brightly-coloured shipping containers. Christchurch also has a vibrant music scene – with a lot of gigs being played in smaller venues, you’re sure to become a fan of a new band.
3. Sport and recreation
New Zealand is a great sporting nation with rugby being played most predominantly. Christchurch is the home of The Crusaders, a superior Super Rugby team, which includes the legendary Dan Carter. Although their former home ground was significantly damaged in the earthquake, Rugby League Park in Addington has been expanded to accommodate the team – the place to be if you’re a sports fan. Dress in the red and black Canterbury colours and you’re all good. If you’re into personal fitness, you’ll love the trekking up The Port Hills. Some of the tracks are closed due to earthquake damage, however those that are open provide stunning views and a good workout. If it’s a higher intensity level you’re after, I dare you to cycle up the Cashmere Hills. Once you’re at the top, you’ll have a panoramic view over the city while you stretch.
4. Parks and punting
Christchurch is known as ‘the garden city’ and it’s clear why. Hagley Park is a defining feature of the city centre and it’s pretty vast – there’s even room for a golf course in North Hagley Park. Nestled between the south and north parks are the Botanic Gardens. These are most beautiful in the springtime when they’re bursting with blossom and flowers (springtime in NZ begins in September). The River Avon weaves through the parks and offers the chance to go punting. It’s very relaxing to glide along the river on a sunny day; you’re sure to feel a twinge of nostalgia as the world passes you by and people wave to you from the bridges. If you do go for a punt, make sure you have a bite at the Boatshed Café afterwards, the people are so friendly and the food is excellent.
5. Bars and restaurants
My favourite place to have a drink is the aptly-named Revival Bar on Victoria Street. It has a very earthy, recycled feel and is rather unique – the only drawback is that some of the chairs are so low-slung that it’s quite an exertion every time you want a sip of your cocktail. If you’re more of a traditionalist you’d probably prefer Pomeroy’s on Kilmore Street – it brews its own beers and serves great food. For a more basic NZ pub experience, you could visit a Speight’s Ale House. The portion sizes are immense but it’s not ‘the flashest’, as a Kiwi would say. The price of alcohol is fairly standard; about $7 (£3.60) for a pint (or a handle). The cheapest place for a boozy night out is Riccarton, usually dominated by students. If you’re a non-drinker you can happily sink the NZ staple; an LLB (lemon, lime and bitters).
So it’s my hope that, if you travel to New Zealand, you’ll pay a visit to Christchurch. If you do have the desire to enter the Red Zone of the city, a tour bus runs a regular service. You’ll learn a bit about seismic activity and witness the dilapidated buildings that once stood so grandly – be warned, it’s not a particularly uplifting experience and you may be accused of being a ‘grief tourist’ by the locals.
Oh, and, one more thing; if you want to stalk some All Blacks, the best place to loiter is Aikman’s Bistro & Bar in Merivale (the ‘posh’ suburb). My mates have seen Richie McCaw there – what a hero.
> Discover more of Christchurch with our range of street maps and travel guides.
One thought on “Christchurch: Top 5 Tips”