Panama

At the heart of the Americas, Panama is a crucial link. East is attached to west, the Atlantic to the Pacific, by the world’s most impressive shortcut, The Panama Canal. Previously defined by this extraordinary engineering feat, the country has begun to carve a new identity for itself. The legacy of Spanish and US occupation means that the country is a fusion between contemporary city life, colonial history and indigenous tradition.
What to see
Panama City
Modern America and old Spain collide in the capital, an analogy for the country as a whole. The cobbled streets and old quarter have World Heritage status, whilst the impressive churches and President’s Palace are the main draws.
Santa Catalina
Panama’s surf centre and a Mecca for big wave enthusiasts who come to ride the breaks and pit themselves against the waves.
Boquete
Highland town with great access to the outdoors that has trekking opportunities aplenty.
Panama Canal
A waterway carved between the Caribbean and the Pacific, flanked by dense jungle, and takes around eight hours to travel along. Visit to get a sense of the enormity of the achievement and the engineering excellence required to make it all work.
The Darien Gap
Wild, remote and untravelled, this infamous frontier is the only break in the Pan American Highway. 4WD vehicles with kit and supplies can navigate the rocky coasts, sandy beaches, swamps and dense forest, although few tackle it.
Top experiences / sites of particular interest
Archipelago de Bocas del Toro
Island chain that has a distinctly Caribbean vibe, jungle-backed beaches and some good surf.
Chiriqui
Attractive region full of stunning scenery, waterfalls, rivers and volcanic highlands. Stop in the Baru National Park to trek the country’s most famous trail, climb the highest peak and look for quetzal birds.
Azuero Peninsula
Retreat here and explore the small colonial outposts along the coast, especially during the famous folkloric festivals, for a quieter, cultured alternative to the main towns.
Parque Internacional La Amistad
Straddling the border with Costa Rica, this reserve is remote and off-the-beaten-path, but worth the effort to get to if you are a serious trekker.
Parque Nacional Coiba
Remote island reserve that is home to some of the country’s unique land and marine ecosystems, as well as copious amounts of wildlife.
Parque Nacional Soberania
Large tract of dense jungle that is home to a world-renowned bird-watching spot.
Isla Taboga
Charming island within easy reach of Panama City that offers a relaxing escape to sandy beaches and tranquil villages.
When to go
Panama is blessed with high temperatures throughout the year. These are coupled with high humidity and rainfall from May to November. The high season runs from mid-December to mid-April. If you want to spend time on the Pacific side come in December and January.
A number of festivals and events take place throughout the year. Semana Santa, the week before Easter, is particularly colourful and riotous, as is Corpus Christi, held 40 days after Easter.
Getting there / around
There is an international airport in Panama City (PTY). A limited number of domestic flights make up an internal network of sorts.
Although there is a rail network, it is used to move cargo and freight, not passengers. The exception is the historic Panama Railroad which sees a vintage train run alongside the canal from Panama City to Colon.
Roads are reasonable. Bus and coach travel is cheap but not particularly widespread. Car hire is available in the capital.
Potential itineraries
Panama represents a challenge to explore fully and independently, given that some areas are especially wild and inaccessible.
If you have your own transport, take a couple of weeks to travel along the Pan American Highway, meaning that you can explore the coast and the interior. When you’re ready for a detour, divert to Santa Catalina, Boquete, Parque Internacional La Amistad or one of the glorious beaches along the way.
If time is tight and cash isn’t too much of an obstacle, a couple of flights will mean that you can see Panama City and the region around it then hop to the Archipelago de Bocas del Toro or Comarca de Kuna Yala island chain to take in the brilliant beaches.
If you have around three weeks spare, catch the train from Panama City across the country, following the Panama Canal, to emerge on the Caribbean Sea at Colon. From here head along the coast, taking in the great sweeps of sand and turquoise sea.
Our Recommendations
Guides
There are country guidebooks for Panama available from Lonely Planet, Rough Guides, Bradt and Moon.
Maps
There are decent maps of Panama available from ITMB, National Geographic and Mapas NaTurismo. Cruise Map Publishing produces the Panama Canal Map.
Read More
Hell’s Gorge by Matthew Parker is the story of the epic endeavour to build the Panama Canal.
David McCullough’s mighty tome about the canal, The Path Between the Seas, also combines history, politics, business and engineering.
Getting to Know the General is Graham Greene’s portrait of General Omar Torrijos. Based on the pairs’ long friendship it looks at the Panamanian political climate in the 1960s and ‘70s.
Darien Dogsby Henry Shukman is an imaginative, erotically charged romp through the Darien Archipelago as a man goes in search of a stolen document and discovers that this idyll may in fact be hell on earth.
Panama by Carlos Ledson Miller is a fictional look at the political turmoil of the Noriega years and the country’s search for its own identity, which is heavily based in fact.
Sight & Sound
To get an impression of the place before you visit watch The Tailor of Panama or the James Bond film Quantum of Solace, both of which were filmed in part in Panama. Musically, listen out for the traditional sounds of Panamanian folk or salsa and the more modern beats of reggaeton, a youth trend that is now much more widespread.
Pre-Trip Practicalities
Language
Spanish
Pick up a copy of Lonely Planet’s Latin American Spanish Phrasebook or Berlitz’s guide to Latin American Spanish to help you get by.
Currency
Balboa (B) made up of 100 centesimos.
Visas
UK and US nationals do not require a visa before entering the country.
Health issues
Inoculations for BCG, hep A, hep B, rabies, typhoid and yellow fever are recommended. Malaria is also present in parts of the country.
Safety, FO travel advice
There are incidents of petty and opportunistic crime in the man urban areas. The border with Colombia has a history of guerrilla activity and conflict.
Useful Telephone Numbers
Panamanian country representatives can be found
in the UK at
40 Hertford Street, London, W1J 7SH. Tel:- 020 7409 2255and in the US at
870 Market Street, Suite 551, San Francisco, CA 94102.Tel:- 415 391 4268.There are no tourist boards in either country.
For more information visit www.panama-guide.com, www.visitpanama.com, www.panamainfo.com or www.panamacanalcountry.com.