Rio de Janeiro has long exercised a magnetic lure for travellers. Escaping to Rio is a travel fantasy - unless you happen to be a Great Train Robber. The city is photogenic, passionate and exuberant. Its vibrancy is matched only by its inhabitants' lust for life. The locals, known as "Cariocas", are as romantic as Parisians, as animated as Italians and as nocturnal as the residents of Spain's 24-hour cities. They personify the phrase "carpe diem", embracing the present. Life here is to be consumed, not observed and the bigger the appetite, the better. The city is possessed of a potency, which frightens many, but affects all. The solution is to abandon your preconceptions of efficiency, rationality and timekeeping and give yourself over to the vibrant rhythm of a city whose many attractions are shorthand for exotica.
In Rio it's best to play the "Carioca" and simply hang out in one of the world's most exciting cities. Maybe it's strolling the length of Copacabana beach, surrounded by examples of all human life. Then dropping into a local boteco to try some pastel de palmito (pastry with palm hearts in) or pao de queijo (cheese filled balls of pastry), whilst an aged accordionist, attended by a wrinkly groupie who's been a little slapdash with the Grecian 2000, practices on his rheumatic instrument. Perhaps it's hanging out "Baixo" style at one of the concentrations of bars in the zona sul. Enjoying a Chopp beer at an outdoor table or while standing on a street corner, people watching and chatting idly. It could be dining on coxina de galinha at one of the many Churrascarias, Brazil's traditional barbecue houses. Or it can happen whilst sipping a cafezinho during the day or later a shot of Caipirinha - Brazil's potent national drink, made of lime, rum and sugar - at one of the suco bars frequented by Rio's bright young things. It could be whilst visiting a feira or outdoor market, where the bold pedestrian can amble between stalls selling food, drink, handicrafts and even magic potions, accompanied by groups of guitar and tambourine players. It could be whilst gambling on bingo, a deadly serious distant cousin of the version played sedately by blue-rinsed grannies in the UK. Perhaps it's sipping lethal aguardiente beneath signed photos of Great Train Robber Ronnie Biggs. Or maybe it's just being in a city which dozes in the sun all afternoon only to wake up refreshed for a sultry night's bar-hopping followed by dinner at around 10 pm and dancing into the small hours. Whatever it is, everything about Rio is exciting and on a grand scale.
It's a place overlooked by the giant statue of Cristo Redenter, perched atop the Corcovado. Here the inquisitive can stare disbelieving across the spectacular panorama that is Rio's backdrop. Elsewhere in the city is the Parque Nacional de Tijuca, the world's largest urban forest, where you can walk between Jacaranda and Ironwood trees searching for Golden Lion Tamarin monkeys. The botanical gardens at Jardim Botanico offer an exceptional insight into the tropical world of the Amazon. Lose yourself on a walking tour of old and new Rio. Drop in on an evening Samba school rehearsal and allow yourself to get caught up in the compelling rhythms. Even hang-glide off Pedra de Gavea, some 500m above the seashore. Or simply sunbathe on Copacabana or Ipanema beach.
But Rio has a seedy side too. The good life and the city's natural gifts collide with the harsh realities of a modern metropolis in an unevenly developing nation. As you fly into the city, you can see the famous granite outcrops of Sugar Loaf Mountain and Corcovado, presiding over the towering buildings on Rio's beachfront. Yet once you have landed, the taxi to your hotel has to drive from Low Town, where the airport is located, to Upper Town. The journey takes about half an hour and involves travelling from one extreme of wealth to the other. Low Town is cloaked in poverty and the trip is deeply affecting. There is a chronic lack of housing, health services and jobs here, which has resulted in the creation and spread of favela (slum) districts. This in turn ensures that Rio has a history of crime and violence.
Everyone told me what to expect, I was travelling with more advice than luggage - "Watch out for the muggings. They're so violent in Rio." Which is terrific. Just the sort of advice to inspire confidence and open-mindedness, when visiting a place. The vast majority of people in Rio are warm, friendly and tolerant, but street crime is a problem here. So the attack, when it came, wasn't really a surprise. It was, after all, exactly what I'd been told to expect. My assailants weren't violent, just fast and opportunistic. The embarrassment was there none the less.
Despite the obvious rift between those who have and those who have not, Rio is one of the most exciting cities I have ever visited. As long as you take sensible precautions you should enjoy every minute of your stay. Do venture out and do mingle, just leave any obviously flashy jewellery and cameras behind.
Rio's most famous event is the annual Carnaval, which runs from the Friday before Ash Wednesday to the following Thursday. The mayor of Rio hands the keys of the city to Rei Momo, The Lord of Misrule, and five days of debauched, surreal, erotic festivities begin. Rightly renowned, the Carnaval is the world's finest manifestation of unbridled hedonism. Fireworks, processions, floats and cross-dressing neighbourhood bands vie for your attention in a sensory orgy.
Rio is much more than just a legendary annual party though. The state of Rio de Janeiro is the size of Switzerland and contains a host of fascinating destinations. Day trips east and west along the coast take you past sleepy seaside towns and reveal truly paradisical stretches of beach. Lush vegetation and mountains meet perfect white sand beaches and transparent waters. The best of these are the easily accessible island of Ilha Grande and the town of Parati, which is a well preserved Colonial relic. Elsewhere, the resort city of Petropolis provides an idyllic mountain retreat.
Cariocas describe Rio as the "Cidade Maravilhosa" (Marvellous City) and, like New Yorkers, can't understand why anyone would want to live anywhere else. Once you've been seduced by the city's assault on your senses, I suspect that you too won't want to leave the most inviting playground in the world.
I used the Lonely Planet guide to Rio de Janeiro. As maps go, try out the Rio de Janeiro map by Falk and if you are planning excursions in the Rio State, rely on the Quatro Rodas map of Rio de Janeiro State.
Author: Alex Stewart
Date: 1 September 2001
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